Review of the Barn Theatre's production of Nigel Slater's Toast in Welwyn Garden City.
What a sweet treat! There’s a delightful play, wonderfully presented for us, running at the Barn Theatre in Handside Lane.
Well-known food writer and broadcaster, Nigel Slater’s coming-of-age memoir, TOAST, was an immediate best-seller, when it hit the bookshops in 2003.
It’s since been adapted for the stage twice, and it’s the second adaptation, by Henry Filloux-Bennett, that’s currently charming Barn audiences.
This is the one that opened in 2018 at the Edinburgh Fringe, before going on to enjoy a successful West End run.
Nigel is nine years old when the play begins and Rob Graham’s narration of Nigel’s story, throughout the show, is captivating. He clearly enjoyed interacting with the audience, who were delighted to join in the conversation.
When he asks what are the best fillings for his favourite jam tarts the audience comes up with a variety of suggestions including, most bizarrely, “condensed milk”! Nigel’s answer was strawberry jam and lemon curd.
TOAST runs at the Barn Theatre until Saturday, November 18, at 8pm, matinee at 2.30pm. Tickets cost £15 from the Barn Theatre box office on 01707 324300 or online at www.barntheatre.co.uk
Suzie Major played the mother with great tenderness and one felt the deep love she had for her son. She would cook for him to express her love, and Nigel always remembered her making toast and bread and butter - simple but powerful acts of affection.
She showed him how to make Christmas cake and made him remember the ingredients, weights and measures of mince pies and encouraged him to cook.
Paul Russell played the part of the father with great insight. Here was a man drowning after the death of his beloved wife and reaching out to whoever was nearest to hold onto.
He marries Joan (who used to be their cleaner) played by Jessica Wall. She’s obsessed with cleanliness, despite having a cigarette constantly in her mouth, and makes Nigel’s life a misery. Competing with Nigel for his father’s affection, she feeds him so many cakes and rich food that it probably contributed to his demise!
The set, which had to represent a number of locations, including first and second homes, pub kitchen, family drive to Bournemouth, seaside hotel dining room and an outside café, was cleverly constructed.
Projections onto a large screen helped to set the scene as the narration moved us from Nigel’s Worcester high school to London’s Savoy where, at 17, he got his first catering job.
I loved the scene when they go to Bournemouth for a holiday. Ruth Burton as the waitress is very funny, doubling up as staff in their hotel and a waitress in an outdoor restaurant, whipping table clothes on and off to change the scene with great facial expressions.
Paul Russell brings the house down eating walnut whips by taking the walnut off the top and sucking out the doughy white middle!
The direction throughout this intimate production was brilliant, which is what we have come to expect from veteran Barn actor/director Keith Thompson.
Do go and see this delightful production. I know you won’t be disappointed.
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